VELOCITY XL FG

N478B


LANDING GEAR / WHEELS / AXLES


 

Velocity’s Fast Build Fuselage option includes installed main landing gear and

nose wheel strut, as well as main gear axles and wheels.

Upgrades / Options:

    Toe-Brake Pedal System

    Heavy duty Cleveland brake system and main wheels.

 

 

 

FAST LINKS TO:

NOSE GEAR         MAIN GEAR         BRAKES

 

 

NOSE GEAR          (Working)

 

1.   Nose Gear Strut Installation       (1) 

We installed the nose gear strut assembly during the Head Start Program at the factory.  The original nose gear strut assembly is shown here without the steel strap around the strut.   I changed this design as described below and for the reasons expressed in # 19 of the Related Projects / Ideas section. 

 

2.   Nose Gear Strut Modification     (1)    (2)     (3)     (4)     (5)     (6)     (7)     (8)        

After several landings, the steel face in contact with the nose gear strut on the original rubber shock bends inward compressing the rubber and diminishing its shock absorbing properties (1).  This creates a gap between the rubber shock and the strut, while on the air (unloaded).  Upon lowering the nose on landing, this gap closes and the strut hits hard against the deformed metal face of the bumper with very little, if any, shock absorbing action.  This results in a somewhat rough nose gear drop and taxiing.  In addition, some pilots have experienced significant shimmy a few times with properly-torqued nose gear washers that they have attributed, at least in part, to this condition. The fix from the factory was to add an aluminum plate between the rubber shock and the strut to eliminate the gap (2).  While still building, I decided to replace the original shock with a part that had no steel plate on the side of the strut to avoid the problem (3).  The whole process is detailed on the NOSE GEAR BUMPER MODIFICATION in the Related Projects / Ideas page.

I placed a 3/16” aluminum spacer between the canard bulkhead and the bumper’s steel plate (4). The holes in the replacement shock were 3/8” so I used 3/8 x 16 bolts and nuts.  I opened the holes on the canard bulkhead located such that the actual rubber on the bumper would start at the level of the captivator and installed the replacement shock vertically (5).  I inserted a couple of wide area washers as shims between the bulkhead and the spacer, on the top bolt, to ensure a flat support for the spacer against the uneven surface of the canard bulkhead.  I also inserted a couple of wide area washers between the aluminum spacer and the rubber shock on the bottom to increase compression and ensure that the strut be tight in place against the captivator.  This gave me about 5/16” to 3/8” spacing at the bottom of the bumper.  I had to place 140 lbs of weights on the nose compartment to compress the rubber shock enough to allow installation of the captivator back in place (6).  Once unloaded, the strut sat in place tight against the captivator (7).  I may have to adjust the level of compression after flying.    The use of washers on the bottom bolt, will give me the ability to adjust the compression by adding or removing them, once I start taxiing and flying (8). 

 

3.   Nose Gear Seal       (1)    

I made a seal for the nose gear hole with flexible plastic to restrict air entrance to the space in the nose and installed it in place with stainless steel screws.   

 

 

MAIN GEAR

 

1.   Main Gear Bolt Bushings Installation        (1)    (2)    (3)

I installed the fore and aft main gear bolt knurled bushings with structural epoxy (Aeropoxy) per the manual.  

 

2.   Main Gear Bolt Reinforcement Pads        (1)    (2)    (3)    (4)

I made microglass pads for the main gear bolt washers to seat flat against the surface.  I removed the washers, sanded the pads, placed a radius around them for transition and reinforced with TRIAX layups, per the manual.  I sanded them, after curing, to prepare for the additional TRIAX reinforcements between the center section spar, gear bulkheads and fuselage sides.

 

3.   Main Gear Filling         (1)    (2)     

I used a metal squeegee to fill the main gear, always trying to minimize sanding (1).  Little sanding seems to do the job, although I have yet to prime and place a light for the truth to come out (2). 

 

4.   Main Gear Fairings        (1)    (2)    (3)     

These were trimmed to fit with a coarse sanding disk in the air grinder and final sanding with 80 grit sanding paper.

 

 

BRAKES

 

1.   Rudder / Toe-Brake Pedals       (1)    (2)   

The Rudder/ Toe-Brake Pedals were assembled and installed per the manual.  I used pieces of water heater rubber hose on the supports to increase grip (1).  I cut them in the back such that they can clear one end of the tube, by sliding it all the way to the other side, before centering them in place (2).

.

1.   Keel Conduit       (1)    (2)      

I used polyethylene tubing inside the keel as a conduit for the brake lines.  The point of entry to the keel is behind the pedal assembly and close to the canard bulkhead on the pilot’s side.  The conduit ends before exiting the keel in the back. 

 

2.   Main Gear Conduit        (1)    (2)    (3)    (4)

Both individual nylon (Nylaflow) brake lines are then routed to the sides of the sump tank, where they enter smaller conduits that take them out the fuselage and down the main gear legs to the brake calipers.  By doing this, I attempt to protect the lines, avoid hydraulic pressure loss due to excessive moving/flexing of lines and possible rattling.  I used hot glue points to keep the conduit attached to the main gear legs and glassed over them per the manual.  To minimize heat transfer, I plan to cover each brake line with Viton tubing and fiberglass sleeving between the conduit exit and the caliper fitting. 

 

3.   Brake Lines       (1)    (2)       

Nylon (Nylaflow) tubing lines were installed per the manual for the upgraded Toe-Brake Pedals system.  I used Adel clamps and a piece of polyethylene tubing to support the lines going between the pilot and copilot sides (1).  I made a couple of bends on the cabin side of the lines that feed the brake fluid for better flexibility upon actuating the rudder/brake pedals (2). 

 

4.   Toe-Brake Pedal Bellcrank       (1)     

The bellcrank was installed and the rods were bolted between the pedals and the bellcrank per the manual. 

 

5.   Brake Fluid Reservoir       (1)      

I installed the brake fluid reservoir in the copilot’s side of the canard bulkhead, in the nose compartment, at the level recommended by the manual.  The brake lines penetrate the canard bulkhead through recycled rubber tops from expired lab specimen tubes that I used as grommets and “T” at the base of the reservoir.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left Arrow: BACKLINK TO CONSTRUCTION IMAGES ON THE OFFICIAL VELOCITY WEBSITE

 

THIS SECTION IS UPDATED REGULARLY.

PLEASE REPORT ANY MALFUNCTION OR BROKEN LINKS TO:

WEBMASTER

 

 

Jorge A. Bujanda / 2004