VELOCITY XL FG
N478B
POWERPLANT
I
had the opportunity to buy a Lycoming IO540-K series (300 hp)
with 0 hours since major overhaul for my project.
FAST LINKS TO:
ENGINE ENGINE INSTALLATION ENGINE CONTROL CABLES
FRONT OIL
COOLER REAR OIL COOLER
FUEL PUMP / FUEL
FILTER FUEL LINES PROPELLER
1. Lycoming
IO540-K1A5 (300 hp) (1)
The engine is a Lycoming
IO540-K1A5 (300 hp) with 0 hours since
major overhaul (SMOH) by Firewall Forward in
1. Stainless
Steel / Fiberfrax Fire Shield Installation (1)
(2) (3) (4)
I made a paper template of
the firewall and transferred it to the stainless steel sheet with a
marker. I used aerospace tin snips to
cut the stainless steel piece to size. I
never had used tin snips and after experimenting a little bit on the corners of
the stainless steel piece provided, I found out it worked better for me if I
tried to cut small sections (1/4” per stroke) and not try to cut bigger lengths. This made it easier on the hands and would
not bend the steel. I drilled the bolt
and rudder cable holes and adjusted their size with a Dremel grinding bit. Once I got the piece cut to the final size, I
cleaned the stainless steel with alcohol to remove the black markings. I sanded all the edges by hand with an 80
grit sanding disc and then with a coarse sanding drum on the Dremel to
eliminate the sharpness of the edges.
For final finishing, I bent about 1/8” of the perimeter of the piece
very slightly toward the firewall with a pair of small pliers (1). I used a
very light coat of spray glue and tacked the Fiberfrax
blanket to the stainless steel piece (2). I then cut
it to shape using a
razor blade against the edge (3). I may have
to use some rivets but for the most part, the fire shield is held in place by
the landing gear bolts and the various components attached to the firewall (4). I sealed
the perimeter with a mix of Velocipoxy and Cabosil
per factory recommendations, to avoid any liquids from being absorbed by the Fiberfrax.
2. Engine
We attached the engine mount
to the engine using the Barry Mounts supplied in the Lycoming IO540 300 hp
installation kit from Velocity. Seems
to me that the best way to mount it is to place all the rubber mounts in
contact with the engine in place and start with the top bolts. Because of the geometry of the dynafocal mount, any separation between the engine and the
mount will tend to misalign the parts.
Therefore, keeping the bolts all lose until the four of them are in
place only makes it harder. I recommend
that the top bolts be tightened snuggly in place to help align the engine and
the engine mount for the two bottom bolts.
2. Engine
Attachment to the Firewall (1)
I balanced the fuselage left
to right and mounted both cowls to mark the center on the floor with a
plumb. I marked the center height on a
straightedge for reference. I used
weights and marked the floor to keep the fuselage from moving and removed the
cowls. With the help of an engine hoist,
I aligned the engine–engine mount assembly against the firewall, plumbing the
center of the engine and the proper height marked on the straightedge. With everything in place, I drilled the top
hole on the firewall and ran a bolt through it.
I did the same with the rest of the bolts and temporarily tightened them
with extra washers so that I did not have to tighten the nuts all the way. At this point, I placed weight on the nose
and relieved the crane to avoid the fuselage from tipping.
1. Instrument Panel Installation (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
The engine control cables were installed on the
instrument panel, per the manual, and ran to the engine compartment through the
pilot’s side duct. I made a flange
behind the panel for added stability of the control cables.
1. Brackets Design and Engine Attachment (1) (2) (3) 
I received engine control cables’ brackets that did
not fit my 300 hp Lycoming IO540-K. The factory has not had a K series engine in its shop and have
not had the opportunity to design a set for them. They asked me to design the brackets and send
the templates to them to make mine and save the templates for future customers
with similar engines. I made the
templates of my design with cardboard and they made them for me in
aluminum. I informed the factory about
my propeller governor being a Hartzell F-4-11 as this
bracket will vary depending on the governor’s make and model.
I installed this NACA during the Head Start Program at
the
2. Oil Cooler Duct. Bottom Section (1)
I also completed the oil cooler duct, installed the
aluminum outlets and completed the flapper valve at the factory.
3. Oil Cooler Duct Installation (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13)
I continued installation of the front oil cooler at
home. I removed the inner skin and some
foam aft of the NACA to clear the oil cooler in place. I made the flange in the duct to fit around
the oil cooler. I confirmed the location
of the marking for the exit hole. I am
glad I did because when the plans and the factory say the markings are
approximate… they really mean it. Actually, mine were so off that I erased them
with alcohol and came up with my own. It
is to be expected that the final location of the exit hole highly depends on
the location and final orientation of the NACA, in all three axes. I cut the exit hole and dry-installed
everything. I permanently installed the
cabin heat inlets with a radius of microglass, between the pedals, on both
sides of the cabin. Before installing
the duct in place, I installed the handle and the flapper valve. I opted to install the handle on the
copilot’s side for comfort and so that the keel would not interfere with the
hand, when actuating it. I also
redesigned its base from a piece of aluminum angle to raise it and somewhat
hide it behind the panel, getting a cleaner look of the cabin under the
panel. It will also allow for a wider
radius bend and smoother operation of the cable between the canard bulkhead and
the flapper valve. I then glassed the
duct permanently in place from the inside with microglass and peel ply. Finally, I glassed the duct on the outside
and filled with microballoons to prepare for final finishing and primer.
4. Front Oil Cooler Lines (1) (2) (3) (4)
The front oil cooler lines were cut, bent and flared per
the manual and were the first aluminum lines I installed. I used Titeseal on
the fittings of the oil cooler. I had
to modify the bracket and fittings on the firewall because of interference of
the assembly with the lower left engine mount leg.
1. Rear Oil Cooler Bracket (1)
Lycoming engines require installation of a rear oil
cooler. I trimmed and assembled the
bracket, adjusting the parts to adapt to the oil cooler supplied by the factory
in the installation kit. I like to use a
thin film of J.B. Weld on all metal surfaces before riveting metal parts
together. I believe this adds strength
to the joints. As usual, I cleaned any
excess off with denatured alcohol and the help of paper towels.
2. Rear Oil Cooler Installation (1)
I attached the bracket to the cooler and confronted
the engine on the firewall to determine clearance for the location of some of
the components, including the rear oil cooler.
I installed the fittings on the cooler with Titeseal
and attached it to the firewall with AN3 bolts.
3. Rear Oil Cooler Lines (1)
I fabricated the rear oil line from the fitting to the
rear cooler with aluminum tubing and covered it with fireshield
hose. I connected the front and rear oil
coolers to the engine completing the oil cooling system. These were made with flexible hoses and
fittings, and were fire-shielded as well.
ELECTRIC
FUEL PUMP / FUEL FILTER
1. Fiberglass
Bases for Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter (1)
(2) (3)
The bases for the fuel pump and the maintainable fuel
filter were done with three plies of TRIAX, per the manual. I cut the inner and outer plies lengthwise,
and the middle ply across the fiber.
2. Electric Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter
Installation (1)
(2)
I determined the location of the components on the
firewall and installed the bulkhead fitting.
I attached the bases to the firewall with AN3 bolts and nuts and
fabricated the fuel lines from the bulkhead fitting to the filter and then to
the fuel pump. The lines are shown
before and after covering them with the fireshield
protection hose.
FUEL LINES
1. Cabin Fuel Lines (1)
I made the fuel and vent lines inside the cabin with
3/8” aluminum per the plans. I don’t
find making the lines difficult, but it is definitely time-consuming as you try
to bend and maintain proper alignment of the tubing. I normally cut the tubing about 2 or 3
inches longer than needed and form the section with extra tubing on both
ends. This allows slight adjustments
between the two ends before final cutting. Once satisfied with the piece, I cut
and flare one side and temporarily install it in place before cutting and
flaring the other end.
2. Firewall - Engine Fuel Lines (1) (2)
(3) (4) (5) (6)
The flexible fuel lines were cut from flexible Teflon
hose and assembled with flared fittings provided in the engine installation kit
from the factory. These are covered with
fireshield hose, also provided in the engine
installation kit from Velocity.
3. Fuel Shut-Off Valve (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
I
installed a T-handle on an aluminum angle and glassed it to the inside of the
fuselage’s pilot side (1). I ran the 12 foot cable inside the pilot’s
duct until its exit point, next to the sump tank (2). The entry and exit points were guided with
polyethylene tubing that I glassed in place with some milled fiber and cabosil. I measured the throw of the T-handle. Based on it, I drilled a 3/16” hole on the
valve’s lever for the connector and trimmed the lever to the proper size. I made a base with aluminum angle, attached the
valve to it with hose clamps and glassed the assembly to the top of the sump tank
oriented so that the cable could actuate the lever in full (3). I glassed aluminum anchor points on the duct
and sump tank, and used rubber tops as grommets to guide the cable (4). I made a connector for the solid wire with a drilled
AN3 bolt and a couple of locknuts (5). Two flexible fuel lines will connect the valve
to the sump tank and to the bulkhead fitting on the firewall.
1. MT Propeller (1) (2) (3) (4)
I will mount a constant speed MT propeller. I acquired a used propeller sold
by his original owner, something very uncommon because of the pusher
configuration and engine size. After
400 hours of use on his Velocity XL / Lycoming IO540D (260hp) combination, he
decided to mount the new propeller on the market from Aerocomposites
Propeller. Before selling the MT, he
overhauled it to “same as new” condition.
The blades were rebuilt by the manufacturer, the hub overhauled, and the
unit assembled and certified as “0” hours per manufacturer’s
specifications. The price was good and
the transaction included the original spinner in excellent condition.
LINK TO
CONSTRUCTION IMAGES ON THE OFFICIAL VELOCITY WEBSITE
THIS SECTION
IS UPDATED REGULARLY.
PLEASE
REPORT ANY MALFUNCTION OR BROKEN LINKS TO:
Jorge A. Bujanda / 2004