VELOCITY XL FG
N478B
CONTROL SYSTEMS
I started
installation of the keel controls during my two-week Head Start Program at the
Upgrades /
Options:
XL5 drop-down
center keel controls.
FAST LINKS TO:
CENTER KEEL CONTROLS CONTROL STICK GRIP RUDDER CABLE INSTALLATION
CENTER KEEL CONTROLS (Section Photo Album)
I sanded both faces of the
plywood piece for the hard point as well as the edges to transition the BID
into the keel surface. I bonded the hard
point in place and covered with 2 BID. I opted for the XL-5 drop-down keel
controls for future use of the keel's space above it, and installed them per
the XL-5's manual. With the aileron
controls installed inside the keel, we sanded the corresponding surfaces of the
keel and the canard bulkhead, in preparation for bonding and for the glass
reinforcements. We glassed the keel in
place, using structural epoxy and clecos.
Once cured, we laid all the keel-canard bulkhead reinforcements per the
manual. The rear aileron control bracket
was assembled and installed. The aileron
trim actuator was attached to the rear portion of the keel. The center keel controls were installed
during my Head Start program at the factory.
CONTROL STICK GRIP (Section Photo
Album)
I liked how the grip on the
kit’s control handle felt but not the difficulty to actuate the switches. I modified it for better ergonomics by
adding material on top to form a more vertical surface for easier activation of
the switches and a support at the bottom to rest the hand in a more functional
position. I covered the faceplate area
with duct tape to make a fiberglass faceplate.
I made the faceplate with four-layer BID. I trimmed to shape and installed the
faceplate with small screws. I installed
the microphone switch so that it is easily activated with a slight upward
movement of the thumb from its resting position. The trim switches are positioned in the
center. I plan to install an autopilot switch
to their right and have additional space for other possible functions; maybe
intercom and speed brake.
RUDDER CABLE INSTALLATION (Section Photo Album)
1. Rudder Pedal Arm
Connection
I tried to slightly bend
the steel tabs on the rudder arms to align them in the direction of the rudder
cable coming from the fuselage side. The
second tab broke off the arm during the process, almost without effort. This
did not give me much confidence in the system.
I drilled a 1/4” hole through the bottom of the rudder arms
perpendicular to the actual direction of the rudder cable. I installed a bronze bushing through it to
encase the 3/16” bolt. The rudder cable
will hook to the cable bushing on the inboard side of the arm, using the
components supplied with the kit. The
return spring will hook on the outboard side of the bolt between two washers
and over a small bushing insert that I cut from a longer one. This assembly is stronger and the angle of
the hole in the rudder arm should help to smooth out rudder actuation.
2. Rudder Cable
Conduit
I attached the rudder cable
tubing in place with hot glue, per the manual, from the firewall to several
inches from the pedals. Instead of one
long tape of glass, I glassed small squares of fiberglass cloth over it every
10 inches or so.
ELEVATOR TRIM (Section Photo
Album)
1. Actuator Base
I formed the base for the
actuator with foam. I made a niche for
the aluminum hard point on the foam base.
I drilled the hard point and glassed it permanently on top of the foam
base with micro. I then laid the BID
and covered it with peel ply. Once cured, I tapped the holes in the hard
point. The assembly was done per the
manual except that I decided to use rotating bolts (castle nuts) to attach the
arms of the actuator to the brackets.
Also, I placed washers on both sides of the actuator front arm to keep
it from moving sideways on the bolt.
Unfortunately, upon testing the assembly, the base ended up been too
high to allow for clearance under the canard cover and proper functioning of
the actuator. I did not realize its
height was that critical. I removed the
hard point and sanded the base flat with the canard top surface, reinstalled
the hard point and glassed over it again.
2. Actuator
Installation
The assembly was done per the
manual except that I decided to use rotating bolts (castle nuts) to attach the
arms of the actuator to the brackets.
Also, I placed washers on both sides of the actuator front arm to keep
it from moving sideways on the bolt.
Unfortunately, upon testing the assembly, the base ended up being too
high to allow for clearance under the canard cover and proper functioning of
the actuator. I did not realize its
height was that critical. I removed the
hard point and sanded the base flat with the canard top surface, reinstalled
the hard point and glassed over it again.
With the assembly in place, I attached both brackets to the trim spring
and placed it in position. I checked the
elevator for full range in both directions and then jigged the trailing edge 1.5”
high to drill and attach the V-bracket to the torque tube. I completed installation of the trim spring
per the manual.
AILERON RIGGING (Section Photo Album)
1. Ball Bearing Installation
I
noticed that the screws holding the aileron bearings in place would not sit
flat against the flange. This actually
deformed the ball bearing case when tightened in place in the rear aileron
bracket, causing an abnormal friction when rotating the bearing and giving the
impression that it was damaged. By
removing the bearing, the deformity was eliminated and the bearing was back to
proper functioning. To resolve the
problem, I Dremel-grinded AN960-416 washers to fit in place and level the screw
heads against the bearing flanges. Make
sure the washer allows proper tightening of the flange against the bracket so
the bearing does not become lose. I did
not have to, but you may have to slightly sand a face of the washer for
this. I used the same setup with the
bearings of the aileron torque tubes and all rotate smoothly now.
2. Aileron Torque
Tubes Installation
The aileron torque tubes
were installed per the manual. I
modified the orientation of the screws for better rotation clearance when
actuating the ailerons.
3. Aileron
Bellcrank Installation at Wing Root
I always assemble
components together and test them in place, making sure they are properly
aligned and work smoothly, before I install them permanently. Therefore, I will not permanently install the
ball bearings or bellcranks, until I am ready to install the aileron cables and
make sure everything works smoothly. Everything
is assembled and aligned for permanent installation of the aileron cables.
LINK TO
CONSTRUCTION IMAGES ON THE OFFICIAL VELOCITY WEBSITE
THIS SECTION
IS UPDATED REGULARLY.
PLEASE
REPORT ANY MALFUNCTION OR BROKEN LINKS TO:
Jorge A. Bujanda / 2004